RC Shock Position Tuning (Simplified)

What is RC shock position tuning?

RC shock position tuning is a crucial aspect of optimizing the performance of RC cars. It involves adjusting the position of the shocks on the vehicle to achieve desired handling and suspension characteristics.

This site contains affiliate links. When you click links, Especially with the word (Ad) you Help the site Grow. The site may receive a commission, at no additional cost to you!

This technique allows RC enthusiasts to fine-tune their cars to suit different track conditions and driving styles, ultimately leading to better control and faster lap times.

In this article, we will delve into the basics of RC shock position tuning and how it can greatly impact the overall performance of your RC car.

Inside Hole on A-Arm

Suspension is softer.
Less stable.
Works well in the bumps and jumps.

Outside Hole on A-Arm

Suspension is harder.
More stable.
Not as good in the bumps.

Tips… If you are unsure where to start, middle to inside A-Arm is great for the front. This helps the front transfer weight to the back and the sides, as well as jumping and hitting bumps better. If the track gets faster and/or gets more grip, moving the shock to the outside hole on the A-Arm helps stability and makes the front easier to drive. In general, you do the same to the rear (start with the inside hole) but only if the rear A-arm hole is much closer to the hub (Most race vehicles will have mounting holes closer to the hub). The pictures above are a good example of when you would likely start in the outside hole (rear only) because the holes are closer to the middle of the A-Arm.

Inside Hole on Tower

Overall the suspension is softer.
The rate stiffens up when compressed.
Less responsive. (lazy).
Easier to drive. (slower).
More forgiving.
More total grip, but needs to roll first.

Outside Hole on Tower

Overall the suspension is stiffer.
The rate stays more of the same when compressed.
More responsive. (twitchy).
Harder to drive. (fast).
Less forgiving.
More initial grip, before roll occurs.

Tips… If you are unsure where to start. For most (off-road) vehicles, try using the middle inside holes on the tower. This allows more initial roll (makes the car less twitchy). As roll increases (with speed) the suspension will firm up, putting more weight and pressure on the tires. This is commonly best on both high and low-grip tracks at all speeds. but changes are needed to the springs and oils. If you can’t change the spring rate or for higher speeds and/or more grip tracks (like on-road) normally the need to move to the outside hole on the tower.

On Tower Recommendation

Generally, I would start in the inside hole – This makes the front more lazy/forgiving and easy to drive. It also gives more total grip once the car starts to roll on the shock. The car does not get as much lift when jumping – This usually means landing faster but does jump as far.
When to move the shock out on the tower – If you need more response or consistency. This also gives you more initial grip by putting more force on the tire before the roll occurs. It will also give more pop off the jump making it jump higher (usually jumps farther as well). can make it harder to drive.

On A-Arm Recommendation

Generally, you should run the recommended factory position for it will change the droop and ride height of the car as well as the spring rate and the internal strength of the shock.
If you can’t find the factory recommendation I would start outside on the arm – This gives the car a more direct feel for the shock is mounted closer to the wheel. (In short, a stiffer ride) The car is also more stable, easier to drive, gains middle-to-exit corner rotation, more lateral grip, and is usually faster in turns.
When to move the shock to the inner location on the arm – If the car is getting upset by the bump. The suspension feels softer! It will give you more initial steering and a grippy feel on corner entry/exit but it can be inconsistent especially if the weight has already transferred to one side.

Laying the shock down will make the shock more progressive. This means the shock and spring will start softer and firm up when compressed. Overall a softer setup.
Shocks that are more upright will be more linear. Meaning the shock and spring will stay relatively the same stiffness throughout the whole stroke. Overall a stiffer setup.

Tools useful for Shock Position Tuning

Top Picks	Features	Deals
Digital Caliper	Good for getting shock length right – waterproof – 2 spare batteries – automatic turn-off	Check Price On Amazon eBay
Shock oil set – Thin	For light or slow-speed cars – 100% silicone shock oil – 20 25 30 35 40 45	Check Price On Amazon eBay
Shock oil set – Thick	For heavy or higher-speed cars – 100% silicone shock oil – 50 60 70 80 90 100	Check Price On Amazon eBay
Shock Pliers	Great tool for working on the shock – made of aluminum – built-in hole	Check Price On Amazon eBay
Shock Holder	Make things a bit less messy – Made in Japan (Kyosho) – Magnetic Strip	Check Price On Amazon eBay